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Some of the oldest Christian graves and tombstones in India and Bangladesh are Armenian.
*NOTE:
The hyperlinks in square brackets [ ] do not work in this blog, please scroll
to the bottom to read the links.*
Madras
For many a tourist, the start of an afternoon’s visit to a small church in Chennai begins at the foot of a large flight of stone steps, leading on to the Little Mount Catholic Church of ‘Our Lady of Good Health’. Already they have missed a significant monument of historical importance, one that has been written about many times, but for some reason not popular enough to photograph and record as they eagerly climb up to visit the wonders of the church and its caves. The language is unfamiliar to many, the script tricky for locals to read; Armenian history is at their feet as the daily routines of people pass by. It is the oldest Christian grave in Madras, and it is Armenian.
Forgotten.
But not any longer.
Images courtesy of Very Rev. Fr. Oshagan Gulgulian |
A record of the inscription can be found in at least two books, Mesrovb
Seth’s ‘Armenians in India’ as well
as a ‘List of Inscriptions on Tombs or
Monuments in Madras’ by Julian James Cotton, but no images have so far made
it in to the public domain.
Described as a milestone in shape, and perhaps maybe even mistaken as
such in this busy city, the tombstone, dated 1663 of Khojah Margar, is one of a
handful of the oldest Christian graves in India that happens to be Armenian.
The others can be found in Surat, Agra, Calcutta, Chinsurah and Dacca respectively.
For those interested in knowing about the other centuries old Christian
graves and monuments in India that are Armenian, here is a brief summary.
Agra
The Martyrose Chapel
Images from the private archive of Liz Chater |
I expected the Armenian cemetery at Agra to
be a little worse for wear and care, but I couldn’t have been more
mistaken. It is incredibly well
preserved and conserved by the local Agra authorities, the grounds and
shrubbery are well kempt and some of the stones and their inscriptions look as
fresh and clear as the day they were carved.
Mesrovb Seth writing of the Martyrose Chapel
said: “This Mausoleum which is not built
of marble, like the world-famed
Taj, is nevertheless the oldest Christian
structure in Northern
India. It was erected in 1611 at the old Armenian Cemetery”.
Agra Municipality are clearly showing their
sympathies towards these beautiful historic stones and structure, making
wonderful efforts in creating an attractive location for tourists to visit.
Image courtesy of Liz Chater’s private archive |
Although not the original stone, there is a
marker inside the chapel remembering the earliest Armenian burial in Agra, Khwaja Mortenepus, 1611.
Calcutta
Probably the most well known in the group of
oldest Christian tombstones, is situated at the Armenian Church in Calcutta. A
modern day plaque in English placed there in 1971 rests upon an 18th
century intricately carved stone, bearing an inscription and date of 1630. “This
is the tomb of Rezabeebeh, the wife of the late charitable Sookias, who
departed from this world to life eternal on the 21st day of Nakha in the year
15 i.e., on the 21st July,
1630.”
It is in the compound of the churchyard
where other interesting tombstones and inscriptions can be found.
Image courtesy of the private archive of Liz Chater |
Chinsurah
The Armenian Church in Chinsurah is the second oldest church in Bengal.
It was erected by the Marcar family. Johannes Marcar laid the foundation for
the church in 1695. He died just two years later and was buried inside the
church. Protected from sun, wind and rain, it is in wonderfully good condition.
Image courtesy of the private archive of Liz Chater |
The transcription is a combination of Mesrovb Seth’s work and present
day scholar and historian Sebouh Aslanian to whom I am most grateful for his up-to-date translation: THIS
IS THE TOMB WHEREIN LIES INTERRED THE FAMOUS QARIB [GHARIB OR
STRANGER/WANDERER] CALLED KHWAJA JOHANNESS, THE SON OF MARCAR OF JULFA, FROM
THE CITY OF SHOSH. HE WAS AN EMINENT MERCHANT, HONORED BY KINGS AND RESPECTED
BY PRINCES. HE WAS HANDSOME AND AMIABLE AND HAD TRAVELED SOUTH, NORTH, WEST AND
ALL THE FOUR CORNERS OF THE WORLD. HE DIED SUDDENLY, ON 27TH DAY OF NOVEMBER,
1697 IN THE EASTERN PART OF THE COUNTRY, AT THE CITY OF HUGLI, AND DELIVERED
HIS SOUL INTO THE HANDS OF THE ANGEL AND RESTED HERE WITH NOSTALGIA FOR A HOME.
THE END OF
THE WORLD SHALL COME, THE CROSS OF THE EAST WILL DAWN, THE TRUMPETS OF GABRIEL
WILL BE BLOWN SUDDENLY IN THE MIDDLE OF THE NIGHT, THE SEAT OF JUDGMENT WILL BE
SET UP THAT THE BRIDEGROOM SHALL COME AND SIT THEREON AND SAY "COME YE THE
BLESSED OF THE HEAVENLY FATHER." AND MAY HE DEEM HIM [KHWAJAH JOHANNESS
MARCAR] EQUALLY WORTHY LIKE THE FIVE WISE VIRGINS, TO BE IN READINESS TO ENTER
THE SACRED PAVILION WHICH ONLY THE RIGHTEOUS THAT ARE ON THE RIGHT, CAN INHERIT.
OH YE WHO
MAY COME ACROSS THIS TOMB PRAY FOR HIM EARNESTLY AND MAY GOD HAVE MERCI ON YOUR
PARENTS AND ON ME, REVEREND GREGORY WHO AM A NATIVE OF ERIVAN. HERE ENDETH THE
TRANSCRIPTION."
Surat
In January 1907 when Mesrovb Seth was
travelling around India recording Armenian
tombstones and gathering research material for his book, he visited the
Armenian cemetery in Surat. There he
came across a tombstone of an Armenian lady who died in Surat in 1579 A.D.
Having seen the stone, Mesrovb Seth gave the
following inscription, translated from ancient Armenian verse,
"In this
tomb lies buried the body of the noble
lady, who was
named Marinas, the wife of the priest
Woskan. She
was a crown to her husband, according
to the
proverbs of Solomon. She was taken to the Lord
of Life, a
soul-afflicting cause of sorrow to her faithful
husband, in
the year one thousand and twenty eight of
our Armenian
era, on the fifteenth day of November at
the first
hour of Friday, at the age of 53.
Ye who see
this tomb, pray to the Lord to grant mercy.”
The year 1028 of the Armenian era is
equivalent to the
year 1579 A.D.
Sadly, it would seem that this particular
stone is no longer visible, or perhaps has simply been overlooked. The cemetery
is being well cared for by the Surat Municipality and monitored by the Science
Museum and I know the museum regularly check the condition of the stones. The
staff are very proud and tremendously passionate about the treasures in their
care. However this particular grave does not appear to be in their inventory.
The oldest surviving marker stone is in the
Mortuary Chapel at Surat belongs to the late Kalendar Kalendar, carved on what
looks like a piece of ancient wood, and, according to Seth says:
This is the tomb of
Kalandar, the son of Phanoos Kalandar of Julfa, who departed this life on
Saturday, the 6th day of March 1695.
Image courtesy of Sanjay Choksi Surat Science Museum |
Thank you Surat for the care and
preservation you do for the remaining Armenian tombstones.
Dacca
Inside the Roman Catholic church (Note: Not the Armenian church) of "Our Lady of
Rosary," at Tejgaon, two and half miles from Dacca, on the Dacca-Mymensingh
Road, built in 1677, there are some old graves of Armenians who died at Dacca
between the years 1714 and 1795.
Image courtesy of The Daily Star, Bangladesh from a series of articles on the Armenians in Dhaka, June 2013 |
The oldest Armenian marker in the cemetery is this
one: “This is the tomb and resting place
of Avietis the merchant, who was the son of Lazar of Erivan, whom may Christ
and His Second Advent find worthy of His presence. In the year 1714 August 15[1].”
Referring once again to Mesrovb Seth’s ‘Armenians In
India[2]’, he notes that, “there
is also an inscription in Portuguese, in which the date of his death is given
“7 de Junho” (7th June). We cannot account for this discrepancy, but
we are inclined to think that the date given in the Armenian inscription is the
correct one, as the old Armenians were very particular about dates.”
It is sad that more of the very old Armenian stones
and markers in India, Bangladesh and SE Asia have not survived the years, but
at the same time we are very lucky that many still do survive and are falling
under the protection of relevant bodies that recognise their significance in
the combined history of India and Armenia.
Important historical graves exist today in
the Armenian Church at Dhaka. My book,
“Armenian Graves Inscriptions and Memorials in India: DACCA” is the first
publication to catalogue in full the remaining tombstones in the Armenian
language with English translations. For many years they were locked in the
beautiful ancient Armenian language but accessible only to a limited audience.
This book releases these astonishing inscriptions to the world-wide family
history researcher and for the first time, allows them to trace their Armenian
ancestry in Bangladesh.
To preview a selection of pages or purchase
the book, please use the link.
If you ever find yourself in Chennai, take a
visit to The Little Mount but look for Khojah
Margar before you climb the steps to the caves.
[1]
Full transcription extracted from Bengal Past and Present short article on the
Armenian Church of Dacca, 1916.
[2]
Armenians In India P.571. For a free download of this out of copyright
publication https://archive.org/details/ArmeniansInIndia_201402